What it takes

I have been working on a little project here in the underground bunker, essentially a collaboration of sorts, in my quest for 1.3GHz. While assembling the components needed for such a task, it occurred to me, an article detailing "WHAT IT TAKES" was a great idea.

Most of us know. . . You need a good CPU, you need the right MoBo, and you need cooling. . . but what EXACTLY does it take?? I'll tell you.

The CPU:

I had found a processor, the 1GHz Thunderbird, the very same processor used in the "1GHz OC" story on [H]ard|OCP. The core that, under normal circumstances, hit 1200MHz without much effort. Extra voltage and added cooling seemed to be somewhat of an aid, so extreme cooling might be just what was needed to reach the big time. Being a "factory unlocked" 1GHz CPU overclocking it was a tad easier, leaving the only limiting factor to be the CPU itself.

The Motherboard:

The motherboard had to be the Abit KT7-RAID. The CPU multiplier options and extreme stability balanced with an awesome feature set made this an easy choice. Kyle took a look at this board back when it came out, and I knew then I had to have one. (**I do not utilize the RAID features on this board for this article though**)

The Cooling Kit:

I decided, after using just the water blocks ( no peltier and radiator ) during my 1GHz OC'ing article, that I needed a Peltier Cooler and better Water Cooling, so I went straight to the water cooling experts, Overclockers Hideout. They furnished a spanky new "Blizzard" system that came with everything I needed:

Waterblocks: 

These are not normal "chunk o' lead drill through" style waterblocks. Everything about them is top notch. I have heard a few criticism here and there, which certainly are just personal preferences. The inlet and outlets fittings are made from white hardened plastic instead of brass. Both are a great choice, but plastic is non-corrosive and not prone to build up such as lime deposits and/or hard water deposits like the Brass units, also. . . . plastic does not retain heat like brass does. Another small factor is plastic will not strip out the aluminum threads of the water block like the brass inserts will. I only know this, since being the tweakmeister that I am, had to screw around with one of my blocks trying different fitting out until I stripped the threads. . . nice.

The finish on the waterblocks is fantastic, the surface that mates to the CPU and/or cold plate is finely machined. I guess if I was going to be anal, the sides of the blocks are not machined the same as the CPU surface, but then again, what kinda dumbass would try mating the side of his waterblock to his CPU?? heh. . . hold it...there’s and idea. . :^) I can certainly say that you can easily compare these blocks to ANY block on the market, and these will easily best all the others. If you know of any that are far superior in design, function and looks. . . let me know.

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